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Programming Adapters

about | P1-PropBS | P2-PXProg | P3-Serial | P4-Serial-DTR | P4_NUE-PSK
assembly instructions | P1 | P2 | P3 | P4 | P4_NUE-PSK

[Click on any picture below to enlarge]



"P3" - Serial TTL-to-RS232 Adapter/Programmer
Works with Arduino, Freeduino, Basic Stamp, PICAXE, Propeller
Shown here set up with 4 pins down for breadboard
and 4 pins forward for plug-in



"P4" - Serial TTL-to-RS232 Adapter/Programmer w/DTR Support
Works with Arduino, Freeduino, Basic Stamp, PICAXE, Propeller
Shown here set up with 5 pins down for breadboard



"P1" - Propeller/BasicStamp rev 1.0



"P2" - PXProgrammer rev 1.0 - a PICAXE programming interface



"P2" - PXProgrammer with protective cover and breadboard plug-in

PayPal Seal

As we do more and more projects and look back across them we see an enormous waste of time, money and pcboard real estate on in circuit programming interfaces. They are duplicated over and over on each and every project board. 75% or more of them are used once and then rarely again. Wulfden is now offering a series of very inexpensive, easy-to-plugin and easily removed TTL to RS232 Serial level adapters that can be used as programming adapters for many of the popular MCU platforms. Thses are offered in kit form as well as assembled and tested



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  • Prices below are displayed in this format [ $4 + $2 ] The number in red is the price of the item(s) and the number in black is the Shipping and Handling charges added to the item price
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    Brian Riley
    PO Box 188
    Underhill Center, VT 05490

    • We are now shipping from stock.


  • For quantity pricing not listed below  contact us by email.
    •   P1 Kit P1 Assembled/Tested
    P1 - Propeller/Basic Stamp Programming Adapter

    Qty = 1

    $5.00 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $14 + $3

    Qty = 1

    $9 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $25 + $3
      P2 Kit P2 Assembled/Tested
    P2 - PXProgrammer

    Qty = 1

    $3 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $8 + $3

    Qty = 1

    $6 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $16 + $3
      P3 Kit P3 Assembled/Tested
    P3 - TTL-to-RS232 adapter/programmer

    Qty = 1

    $3 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $8 + $3

    Qty = 1

    $6 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $16 + $3
    P3 - bare PCBs

    Qty = 1

    $1.50 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $4 + $2

    Qty = 5

    $6 + $2

    Qty = 10

    $10 + $2
      P4 Kit P4 Assembled/Tested
    P4 - TTL-to-RS232 adapter/programmer w/DTR Support

    Qty = 1

    $5 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $13 + $2

    Qty = 1

    $9 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $25 + $3
    P4 - bare PCBs

    Qty = 1

    $2 + $2

    Qty = 3

    $5 + $2

    Qty = 5

    $8 + $2

    Qty = 10

    $14 + $3

      P1 - Assembly Instructions

    1. The P1 pcboard (figure #1). Please take note of the double row of 4 holes immediately above the holes for the J5 connector. Nothing goes into these holes under most circumstances. However if you have reason to rearrange the i/o signals and voltage input, you may cut these four traces and solder in jumper wires to make t he connections as you like
    2. We will populated the board in sections, stopping to solder and clip leads after each section. The density of the board is such that doing all the resistors at once makes for very awkward soldering.
    3. Referring to figure #2, identify and insert the two NPN transistors, Q2 and Q3 (2N3904), into the first row above the double row of 4 pins observe the body outlines on the silksceen. Solder and clip leads.
    4. Refer to figure #3, Insert resistors vertically bend top lead down - R1 (10Kohms brown-black-orange), R2 (10Kohms), and C1 (.01 uF marked "103" or "153") moving up from Q2. Solder and clip
    5. Refer to figiure #4. Insert R3 (10 Kohms), and R4 (10 Kohms) vertically working up from Q3. Insert R5 (10 Kohms) horizontally. Solde and clip
    6. Refer to figure #5. Insert vertically R6 (4.7 Kohms yellow-violet-red)to the right of R3, the insert R7 (1 Kohm brown-black-red) to the right of R6. Insert transistor Q1 (2N3906) above R7. Observe body outline and orientation in silkscreen. Solder and clip
    7. Push the DB9 plug pins over the edge of the boards. On some of the boards they do not line up pefectly but well enough that they can be soldered on without making any unwanted solder bridges. Figure #6 covers this and the next step.
    8. Attach the 5 pin female socket header and solder. If this board is going to be used just for breadboard work, you may wish to substitute a 5 pin, straight up header section, inserting it from the solder side of the board with the long pins down, and soldering on the top side.
    9. Slide DB9F on as appropriate and solder. Inset righ
    10. Slide the clear heatshrink over the unit and gently heat with a heat gun or over a stove. Hold unit with forceps or hot dog tongs and keep it moving so as not to damage the board or plastic connectors
    11. The Pinouts of the P1 header connector as as follows. Holding the P1 with the socket header towards you and the DB9 away. (refer to figure #6) Left to right, Pins 1(square pad), 2, 3, 4 & 5;
      1. Pin 1 - Vss (Gnd)
      2. Pin 2 - Reset
      3. Pin 3 - TxD
      4. Pin 4 - RxD
      5. Pin 5 - Vdd (+ 3-5 volts)

    [Click on any picture below to enlarge]


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      P2 - Assembly Instructions

    1. Insert the three resistors. From left to right 180 ohms (briwn-gray-brown), 22 Kohms (red-red-orange, 10 Kohms (brown-black-orange), then the BAT42 Diode (black band down) - see figure #1
    2. The next steps may seem tedious for what looks so simple. The PCB here is very small and everything is on it compactly. These steps are designed to allow you to solder both the leads and the DB9 connectors down in close proximity with the least chance of creating an unwanted solder bridge.
    3. Bend leads as shown in figure #2 with one set of leads away from the edges.
    4. Solder and clip these leads. Bend the remaining leads away from the edge as in figure #3. Solder and clip them also
    5. Push the DB9 plug pins over the edge of the board. On some of the boards they do not line up pefectly but well enough that they can be soldered on without making any unwanted solder bridges.
    6. Attach the 3 pin female socket header and solder. If this board is going to be used just for breadboard work, you may wish to substitue and 3 pin, straight up header section, inserting it from the solder side of the board with the long pins down, and soldering on the top side.
    7. Slide the clear heatshrink over the unit and gently heat with a heat gun or over a stove. Hold unit with forceps or hot dog tongs and keep it moving so as not to damage the board or plastic connectors
    8. The Pinouts of the P2 header connector as as follows. Holding the P2 with the socket header towards you and the DB9 away. (refer to figure #1) Left to right, Pins 1(square pad), 2, & 3;
      1. Pin 1 - Sout
      2. Pin 2 - Sin
      3. Pin 3 - Gnd
    9. Note - Rev-Ed leaves the 10K/22K resistors in place after programming. This keeps the Sin pin from floating and falsely invoking the bootloader. Since the P2 has them on its board and they will be removed after programming, you can install as part of the permanent target chip circuit design a 47K (yellow-violet-orange) 1/8watt resistor from the Sin pin to GND. When the 10K/22K divider from the P2 is placed across this it will have no adverse effect on the programming process, but when the P2 is removed the 47K resistor will hold the Sin pin down and out of trouble.

    [Click on any picture below to enlarge]


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      P3 - Assembly Instructions

    1. Schematic available
    2. Holding the board with the solder tabs towards you, from right to left insert the three resistors; 180 ohms (brown-gray-brown), 22 Kohms (red-red-orange, 10 Kohms (brown-black-orange), then the BAT42 Diode (black band towards chip)
    3. solder and clip these leads off
    4. Carefully lay the chip on its side and push it evenly from both sides so the legs are more perpedicular to the chip rather than splayed outward as it comes from the factory. Then turn the chip on its other side and do the same
    5. Align the chip with its notch towards the two rows of 4 holes end. (if you hold the PCB so you can read the words "Wulfden/ModernDevice", then the writing on the chip will be upside down). Now carefully insert the chip into the 14 holes.
    6. check that all pins are through their respective holes, bend a two pins over at diagonally opposite points to hold the chip in place while you solder.
    7. Solder and clip these leads.
    8. Push the DB9 plug pins over the edge of the board. With some of thses connectors they do not line up absolutely perfectly but well enough that they can be soldered on without making any unwanted solder bridges.
    9. insert, solder, and clip lead of the .01 uF capacitor (marked "104")
    10. Insert the connector of choice, pins, sockets, wires. You may use either or both of the two sets of four holes
    11. The Pinouts of the P3 header connector as as follows. Left to right, Pins 1(square pad), 2, 3, & 4;
      1. Pin 1 - TX (data to RS232)
      2. Pin 2 - RX (data from RS232)
      3. Pin 3 - + 3.3-5.5 vdc (power from host)
      4. Pin 4 - GND

    [Steo-by-Step Pictures to come]




      P4 - Assembly Instructions

    1. Schematic available
    2. Holding the board with the solder tabs towards you, from right to left insert the three resistors; 180 ohms (brown-gray-brown), 22 Kohms (red-red-orange, 10 Kohms (brown-black-orange), then the BAT42 Diode (black band towards chip)
    3. solder and clip these leads off
    4. Along the left edge insert a 0.1 uF cap (marked "104"), the two 10 K resistors, and another 0.1 uF cap, solder, and clip excess leads
    5. Carefully lay the chip on its side and push it evenly from both sides so the legs are more perpedicular to the chip rather than splayed outward as it comes from the factory. Then turn the chip on its other side and do the same
    6. Align the chip with its notch towards the three rows of 5 holes end. (if you hold the PCB so you can read the words "Wulfden/ModernDevice", then the writing on the chip will be upside down). Now carefully insert the chip into the 14 holes.
    7. check that all pins are through their respective holes, bend a two pins over at diagonally opposite points to hold the chip in place while you solder.
    8. Solder and clip these leads.
    9. Push the DB9 plug pins over the edge of the board. With some of thses connectors they do not line up absolutely perfectly but well enough that they can be soldered on without making any unwanted solder bridges.
    10. Insert the connector of choice, pins, sockets, wires. You may use any of the sets of five holes.
    11. You may also cut the traces between the two rows closest to the chip and then use those two rows and short wire jumpers to re-align the pinouts
    12. The Pinouts of the P4 header connector as as follows. Left to right, Pins 1(square pad), 2, 3, 4, & 5;
      1. Pin 1 - TX (data to RS232)
      2. Pin 2 - RX (data from RS232)
      3. Pin 3 - + 3.3-5.5 vdc (power from host)
      4. Pin 4 - GND
      5. Pin 5 - Reset

    [Step-by-Step Pictures to come]




    P4 with LilyPad Arduino(R)

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    Lilypad Arduino. P4, and 4.5 volt batterypack    		 _
    Closeup of rewired pin arrangement
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    Bottom mounted socket header for clean connection